Does “Made in the USA” always mean ethically made?
The U.S. has one of the world’s largest apparel markets. However, you will find that 95% of the clothing sold here is made elsewhere. You might also believe that sweatshops are just a problem in developing countries, but they are prominent in the U.S. too.
According to the U.S. Department of Labor, sweatshops are defined as factories that violate more than two labor laws. These laws can pertain to working conditions, wages, and benefits, and child labor. But what actually protects workers from unethical sweatshop labor?
In 1988, the International Labour Organization (ILO) adopted the Declaration on Fundamental Principles and Rights at Work, declaring that organizations, governments, employees and workers have a responsibility to provide basic human rights to their workers. The declaration is meant to create an ethical framework for employers within their organizations. Some popular brand names, like Forever 21, haven’t followed this framework, instead dodging liability for factories and underpaying vulnerable workers.
The U.S. DOL investigated that Forever 21, among other Southern California garment industry companies, “had violated the "hot goods" provision of the FLSA, which prohibits employers from shipping in commerce any goods produced in violation of the act's minimum wage, overtime or child labor standards.” Investigators determined that garments produced in one of the shops investigated were destined for Forever 21 stores.
Between 2008 and 2013, the department conducted more than 1,500 investigations of employers in Southern California's garment industry, finding violations in 93 percent of cases. Investigations found that workers weren’t making the minimum wage of $8 during that time. Anecdotal evidence reported that most workers were putting in 10-12 hour days, seven days a week, and were paid according to each garment they sewed and cut, rather than by the hour.
“The extent of the violations discovered by these investigations was disappointing,” said then-Secretary of Labor Hilda L. Solis in a statement after the DOL’s 2012 investigations. She also states that “retailers need to actively ensure that clothes produced in the US for sale to the American public are made by workers who are paid at least the US minimum wage and proper overtime.”
Forever 21 is just one example of an American fashion company that has been investigated for sweatshop conditions. Globalization has made the experiences of workers in developed countries more relevant. More and more workers are risking their jobs to speak about the conditions experienced.
Immigrant workers are some of the most vulnerable workers in these sweatshops since they are often dependent on their temporary legal status and the relationship they hold with their employers. To secure their safety, these workers are often willing to tolerate abuse in fear of losing their jobs.
Companies like Walmart have also been involved in sweatshops. The contracting system between multinational companies in the U.S. and workers are served to increase exploitation and profits for workers. Sweatshops are predominant in major metropolitan areas such as New York City and Los Angeles, but the consequences for breaking such labor laws are often relatively harmless and do not prevent sweatshops from existing.
Thanks to activist networks and hundreds of advocate groups, the mobilization to improve wages and conditions in sweatshops has picked up media attention.
The SweatFree Purchasing Consortium campaign started in Madison, Wisconsin works to end public purchasing at sweatshops and encourages U.S. cities, states and school districts to adopt a “sweatfree policy.” The sweatfree movement empowers workers and people to rethink their purchasing patterns and create a public conversation on the need for transparency and decent working conditions for organizations. Many other organizations have joined the fight for ethical labor, and several ethical brands have emerged to provide clothing made without exploitation.
“Retailers need to actively ensure that clothes produced in the US for sale to the American public are made by workers who are paid at least the US minimum wage and proper overtime.”
Though there is still legislation that requires U.S. companies to follow U.S. health and safety standards globally for workers, labor exploitation is alive and well in the US today, especially among low-income immigrant communities
Some Americans have even vowed to only buy clothes made in the states by avoiding the support of any company tied to sweatshops. The reality is that the “Made in the USA” label doesn’t always ensure that workers aren’t being exploited.
This is why Dressember has launched an Ethical Fashion Directory that makes it easier for consumers to purchase goods that are ethically made and protect workers’ rights. Green America’s Green Business Network also provides resources for consumer purchasing from over 8,000 small green, ethical, BIPOC-owned and otherwise beneficial businesses.
Many local states and local governments across the country are changing their laws and regulations and providing uniform contracts that prevent the exploitation of sweatshops. This is why it's important to advocate for workers’ rights and avoid fast fashion. Advocates can continue to use resources created by Dressember to purchase items that are ethically made and protect the rights of workers. You can also join groups like Green America’s Green Business Network to find resources that help small local businesses across the country.
Holding companies accountable is important in protecting the lives of those in both the U.S. and internationally. Join us as we fight against the unethical practices of sweatshops in the U.S.
About the Author
Daniela (D) Molina is a Cuban gal pursuing a M.S. in Journalism at Indiana University. Since she was young she knew that words had power. She absolutely loves moths and is proud to speak Spanish with whoever she meets.